Friday, June 12, 2009

In the midst of many blessings, off to a rough start

Here I am, night two, 2 AM, wide awake, slowly making my way thru jet lag, after having traveled thru multiple time zones. Since I had slept my way thru the two international legs of the flight over, I had hoped that I would have been spared it, but no such luck. So, here I lay, listening to the sounds of the Ganges River, preparing my first blog entry since arriving in India.

Between London and New Delhi, I had an 8 hour layover. Not one to miss an opportunity for adventure, in a new country with enough time to do a bit of exploring, I made my way onto the Tube, headed into Leicester Square, one stop past Piccadilly Circus in downtown London. I had just enough time to grab a bite to eat, take a brief walk around the Square and then back to the airport. Actually cutting it a bit close, generating a small amount of stress, as it became clear that I would not make the recommended early arrival for International flights. Fortunately I was befriended by a local fellow who was on his way to Singapore and was quite familiar with the different terminals at Heathrow. Graciously he guided me along my way. I am sure he made the difference as to whether or not I made my connection, with only minutes to spare. Upon reflection, I generally tend to cut it short, not being one to enjoy arriving hours early, and then just waiting for departure. While I have never missed a flight, often I have arrived just in the nick of time, as I did a few days ago, at Heathrow airport. I suppose we all have different temperaments, determining how we navigate our way thru life. Would I be better off, doing it differently? Don't know.

Upon boarding the plane to New Delhi, I was pleasantly surprised to experience a remarkably more comfortable plane. This was a flight on award winning Asian run Jet Airways, where customer care is top priority, reflected all the way from the design of the aircraft to the attentiveness of the stewardesses to the delicious Indian meals that were served. Shortly after boarding we were offered a warm damp face cloth for freshening up with, and I knew I was in good hands. Periodically during my journey across the ocean I reflected on the flight from Brazil to Paris, that just yesterday, disappeared in midair, yet to be discovered. Some 220 life's, just gone, with no clear answers as to why or where. Just gone. Surely, some form of destiny at work, seeming to have little influence on any of the thousands of travelers committed to carrying on with our plans, wherever they were taking us. Shortly after breakfast, two hours before arrival time, I chose to watch The Reader. I had wanted to see it when it first came out, but missed doing so. Quite a tender film. I found myself left feeling vulnerable and open as we landed in Delhi. Somehow imagining that it was all part of the journey. Making my way thru immigration, claiming my luggage, receiving some currency from the ATM machine and finding my way to the shuttle bus, which would take me to the interstate bus station , all went very smoothly. Surprisingly I was spared the onslaught of beggars and taxi drivers that I had been warned of. But instead, much to my delight, while waiting for a full load of passengers, I was accompanied by a young man, who spoke good English and was eager to offer his support, encouraging me to ask him "anything I wanted to know" about his country, his culture, his people. While I was feeling a bit numbed from the past 36 hours of travel, I had little to ask. Slowly, as the conversation began to unfold, and we exchanged names, it became clear that he was sent to me by Sai Baba. His name is Sai Ram. I asked him if he knew Sai Baba and he informed me that he had received his name from the Avatar.

I have been aware of Sai Baba for many, many years. He was one of the Eastern Guru's that influenced my teachings early on. More recently, while in the hospital in March, a friend of mine, a devotee of his, brought me his picture and encouraged me to pray to Swamiji. I appreciated his familiar image, while not necessarily feeling a personal connection with him. During the final hour before confirming my plane reservation, I found myself praying to him for support, should this journey be for my highest good. And now, here he was receiving me into his country, thru Sai Ram. Once the connection was conscious, the questions began to flow. There was a kind of kindredness between us and I welcomed the guidance he had to offer. After arriving at the bus terminal, Sai Ram guided me thru the maze, I had anticipated at the airport, first taking me shopping for food and water, before getting on the 7 hour bus ride I was about to take. Then, exploring the different options, attempting to find the right bus for the trip, negotiating with the bus driver in purchasing the right ticket for the proper fare. After coaching me as to how to find my way, once in Rishikesh and onto the Ashram, he was off. Before leaving he gave me his cell number, insisting I call him, should I need any help. So that as I headed for the Northern part of India, I was sure that I was in good hands, and that Mother India was looking after me! I look forward to the journey she has in store for me, while visiting her homeland.

It is now 4:21 AM. Before long, daily yoga will begin. I look forward to the opportunity to support my body in easing into those postures which will allow it to comfortably sit cross legged, on the floor, as we all share in our meals and other communal practices together.

One week later:

It was a week ago that I arrived at Poohl Chatti, a small ashram on the Ganges River, north of Rishikesh. It has been the perfect place in which to get my bearings. The perfect place to become somewhat accustomed to this new and very different country/culture. It is located about 4 km. outside of the bustling city of Rishikesh, which is quite a sacred area, at the base of the Himalaya mountains. Now is the holiday season for the Indians and this holy place is a destination spot for many of them. The massive numbers of people that fill the streets, can be quite overwhelming. I spent my first night there before making my way here, the next morning. I have traveled into town a number of times, getting small tastes of it and then retreating back to the ashram, in order to assimilate.




Yes, it has been perfect to be here. Life at the ashram has been sweet. There are many travelers from all over the world staying here for short periods of time, stopping by in order to replenish their weary souls, before venturing on. Chai time, after our meals, provides great opportunities to share of each others adventures, favorite towns/areas/ashrams to visit, politics, spiritual practices, along with many, many stories that emerge out of being in this awesome part of the world.

There is also a retired resident Swami who is at home here along with a number of others and many locals that come to visit. It has been a great place to learn of some of their traditions, including sharing our meals sitting on the floor cross legged, eating only with our right hand (left hand is reserved for – toilet duty) removing shoes before entering the dining hall, evening chants, proper dress and getting familiar with hearing a foreign language, opening to communication beyond words, all the while taking in the constant rhythmic sounds of the Ganges flowing, in the background. As is so often the case, I have been blessed with a wonderful room. Mine was on the top floor at the end of a corridor, with 3 sides of windows, one which looks out over the sacred waters. It makes it a bit of a challenge leaving here.



The first few days were quite intense, in that the temperatures got quite high, in the 40's, along with a good bit of humidity. While absolutely loving all of the views my little abode afforded me, there was no escaping the heat as the sun came pouring in, from all directions. Along with all of the bright light, came much heat! Just about the time I recovered from jet lag, we had an evening downpour which broke the heat spell and I was ready to enjoy my arrival. It was about that time, that I became acquainted with two of the others, staying here. Emanual and Tara, from Australia. They had just arrived from the Southern part of the country, in order to escape the heat there. Not toosurprisingly, they are devotees of Sai Baba and had been living at his ashram for the past 4 months. Emanual has been a disciple of his for the past 20 years. They had great stories to share , clarifying even further, that visiting His ashram was in store for me.

All of the women here wear wonderful bright colored clothing. I am finding that I am ready to unload everything I brought to wear, replacing it with Indian garb, including wonderful long scarfs, with multiple purposes. Doing so is very inexpensive as prices are extremely low here.

Line, a dear young woman from Denmark is heading to Delhi and has offered to drop off a bag of mine to be stored at one of the hotels, until I return for my flight home. While committed to traveling light, I am seeking even lighter and appreciate the offer.

One of my favorite parts of the day here has been the 2 hour morning yoga classes. Over 30+ years ago, I practiced yoga and loved it. ( It was around the same time that I was listening to George Harrison's album All Things Must Pass, after the Beatles had made their way to Rishikesh to study with the Maharashi, on their "Magical Mystery tour"! ) I have practiced yoga, off and on since but never on a very regular basis. Getting into the class here, I reconnected with the time when I so enjoyed it. Doing yoga in India seems to feel so natural with the body responding some days more comfortably than others. It is such a great way to prepare for the travel days ahead, loosening and stretching all of the joints and muscles that will be asked to serve me on my way. Yes, in India, one doe yoga and how good it is!

The other special part of the day, is spent swimming in the Ganges. As a way to cool down from the heat, many of us make our way to the River, soaking in her cool, fresh waters. The same waters that are so highly revered and plays such a major part in the spiritual life of the millions of Hindis. Surely there will be many more experiences of the Ganges as I travel on. Surely, this is one I will remember quite fondly.


So much more could be said, so much more will be remembered, but for now, it is time to move on. I have attended my last yoga session while here, had breakfast, exchanged addresses and shared final hugs and said good-bye's. Now is time to journey on, making my way even further north, heading towards Dharmsala, home of the Dali Lama. Namaste.

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