Unfortunately I woke up with Delhi-belly and found myself going nowhere fast, other than the bathroom! I first tried going to a Tibetan doc for some help. He gave me some herbs to take, did some acupuncture and sent me on my way. It was not until I got desperate three days later, and bought some meds recommended by the pharmacist that I got relief. After having gone thru my experience in Mexico with parasites 2 years ago, I did not want to take my chances, attempting to use local remedies for the novelty of it. Shortly after recovering, I crossed paths with a number of the young women I met at Poohl Chatti. I had also been in touch with Tara and Emanuel via emails. Seemed as though a number of us who had stayed there had gotten sick.
The day before leaving the ashram, the electricity had been out for about 10 hours - which is not uncommon - most likely causing some spoilage. With most travel books warning of the likelihood of developing some form of stomach problem while in India, I am confident that I have paid my turista dues, ready to move on in perfect health for the duration of the journey, thank you! Now feeling much better, I moved to a smaller hotel just down the street. The Om Hotel once again provided a room with quite a nice view overlooking the valley. Pretty minimal accommodations, but certainly pleasant enough at $6 a day. I brought my own small, down camping pillow, so along with it, a bed to sleep on, a fan to circulate the warm night air, and water to bath with, it does not take much to satisfy my needs.
So even though it took me a few days to begin to explore McLeod, I immediately felt a difference from the other areas of India, I had already explored. Partly due to its location in the Himalayan Mountains, at an altitude of 1770 M, making for cooler, crisper weather, surrounded by incredible mountain views and tall pines. The trip up the Mountain was quite beautiful. I will have to imagine the magnificence of this highly respected wonder from afar, as I will not be traveling any further north.Dharamsala is rich with diversity. From the Muslim shopkeepers peddling their tapestries and papier mache from Kashmir, to the Hindi who are natives to the area, or those who briefly arrive on the weekends for a holiday, packing the streets as they drive through, beeping their horns as they go, the gypsies making their case for food, the westerners eager to contribute to the displaced Tibetans, the Monks remaining steady in their faith as they vigilantly remain true to their teachings, to the older Tibetans who seem to have made peace with their life here, to the young refugees who are still weary from the journey over, still numb from the trauma of it all, displaced and disconnected from those they love, eager to return to their homeland, hopeful that someday soon they will be free to do so. And at/in the heart of them all, is His Holiness, the Dalai Lama. Yes, they all love their Dalai Lama. It is in him that they have hope, that they feel supported and loved. He is the point of connection that holds them all together. His image and presence is felt throughout the town. The Tibetans would not be here, were it not for him. In many cases, he is the only reason they were willing and committed to making the painfully dangerous trek necessary to get here.
While there, I had the privilege of volunteering some time to be with a number of the young refuges, in a conversation class hosted by a local organization. Many shared stories of their escape out of Tibet, through Nepal, over the Himalayas and into India. For those fortunate enough not to have been captured, detained and punished, the trip seems to take an average of 28 days on foot. Most of them traveled in small groups of 8-12 people, led by a guide that best knows how to get them across safely, for a fee that was in turn often times used to bribe their way across borders. The majority of them travel without family members, so that when they finally arrive in India, they do so without their loved one. When I asked them why did they come, why did they risk their lives to be here, their response was consistently, "To be with the Dalai Lama." In him they have faith that things can be different - that someday the Chinese government will withdraw from Tibet, freeing them to live the life they choose, with a few of them concerned as to whether or not the path of non-violence was really an effective one. Was the Dalai Lama's deep and abiding commitment to the tenets of Buddhism, compassion and cooperation, really moving them much closer to their deepest heart’s desire - to be home with their families, to be in back in their homeland with their own people, their own culture, their roots, to live in peace. Many of them spoke of their experience of getting to meet the Dalai Lama after arriving here. It is customary that all refuges are greeted personally by His Holiness, upon their arrival. Many of them spoke of the tears they cried when first meeting him. One young man shared that he was sure he would not be moved to do so, but that in the moment, his emotions were overwhelming, and he too joined with the others in expressing his great joy, and deep gratitude for being here, alive and with Him. As each refuge has his/her own means of dealing with the challenges they face as they attempt to live their lives in some pretty difficult situations, the teachings of Buddhism helps to hold them steady, while boarding schools, new-found friends and the religious community provide further support. Little seems to be available as far as psychological counseling goes, so that as emotional wounds are unattended to, some are vulnerable to unhealthy behaviors, such as drinking and drugs. I was not in Dharamsala long enough to experience this first hand, however I did witness a group of health practitioners parading, advocating for a drug-free life. While for the most part a very peaceful community, the Tibetans do remain socially involved, reflected in the multiple banners displayed, helping to maintain an awareness of the issues that are important to them.
The town itself is quite packed with shops filled with anything and everything a tourist might imagine, intermixed with wonderful cafes ready to serve a multitude of cuisines - everything from Tibetan food, Chinese, Japanese, Italian, Mexican and yes, American. A meal rarely costs more than a couple of dollars, usually providing more than enough to eat. Oh yes, and lots of great chai, even though I still seek out my favorite place for a yummy cup of coffee every morning. It is a café just down from the Temple. In addition to the great brew, it also makes for a wonderful place to sit and take in the local scene as the vendors begin to set up shop for the day. All the while, those who are making their way in and out of the temple pass my way.
After many days, I begin to recognize some of them, including the beggars that work the area. After contributing to a couple of them, I ask to take their picture, to which they are quite agreeable. The beggars here are very interesting. They appear to be kin to the Romas I encountered in Hungary. Unlike those in Eastern Europe, they "do not want money mam, I am hungry, I need food for my baby," they insist. Initially quite willing to respond to their request, they guide me to the closest market. They immediately go for the powdered milk, often times selecting two bags, at a cost of about 500 rupees, the equivalent of about $10, 10 times more than I would have offered if I were to have given them money. Rumor has it that they then sell it back to the store, for the cash. Ah, once again, an opportunity to deal with my own thoughts, considerations, prejudices, concerns regarding relationship with other, other apparently in need. Each and every one who is approached by them does so, in their own very personal way, including the monks, who are not exempt from the experience/dilemma. One day while visiting a monastery, I was having lunch with a couple of other women when a group of the women beggars/with babes in arm, began to approach our table. Immediately the resident canine rushed to intervene, barking nonstop, literally chasing them away. One of the local women commented that they do not like the beggars and don’t seem to have much tolerance for their practices. All kind of curious. With a bit of compassion for the begging mothers and the scene that the dog was making as they attempted to work the crowd, I must admit I also felt a certain amount of gratitude for his insistence in preserving our space. Ah, lunch in peace, while quite happy to share my extra rice, at the end of the meal. Thank you dear canine.
The first day I made it to the Temple, I met a Tibetan woman who actually lived in America but has returned to India to be with her teacher. She is quite an interesting woman. In the U.S. she was married to a wealthy man, whom she divorced. After coming here, her teacher asked to her give up her money and to live on the streets, as part of her spiritual practice. I immediately offered her some rupees, but she declined, sharing that she has 20 for the day and that was more than enough, and that I should give my money to the Temple instead, or to one of the poor people on the streets. She invited me to join her at 5:00AM for lingkor, a walking meditation (ling - area surrounding the temple; kor - paying respect), circumambulating the grounds. It is a devotional practice that many, especially elderly, Tibetans participate in daily. Quite a lovely experience.
All along the path are many, many prayer wheels. The wheels contain within them the avalokiteshvara’s mantra, Om Mani Padme Hum, which is a prayer requesting that His Holiness, the Dalai Lama, live for many eons and that all of his wishes be fulfilled, a prayer showing our solidarity for those brave men and women of Tibet who lost their lives for the cause of Tibet, and a prayer for the happiness of all sentient beings. Each spin of the wheel represents a prayer. Many carry with them hand-held wheels, spinning them as they walk.
Also on the path are many, many prayer flags, along with colorful prayers painted on the rocks. There is also a quite beautiful stupa, which is a religious monument with much symbolism, representing the various states of consciousness, said to contain a relic of the Buddha. There are also a number of sadhli - ascetics - dressed in their bright orange robes, sitting along the path, seeking enlightenment through doing their prayer work. Unlike the beggars, they ask for nothing, trusting in the Divine to meet their needs, as It manifests thru the goodwill of others. I am especially touched by the number of elderly that religiously make the pilgrimage each day, some moving ever so slowly up and around the hill...some with the help of others, often stopping for a rest at various points along the way.
Also along the path are the "sacred cows," meandering along their way, contributing to the ambience as they go. One morning I came upon a monk who was sharing his wealth with the monkeys, rapidly drawing quite a crowd of seemingly grateful recipients. And then perhaps my favorite part of the morning sojourn was in stopping for a short period of meditation, while sitting with a couple of monks who hold vigil chanting Tibetan prayers, in a very small temple along the way. At the end of the path, farmers offer their fresh greens for the day, with a lineup of bok choy, squash and okra. With each day, I discovered something new on the walk. I will miss it, I will miss those I walked with and will remember it quite fondly.
Once the walk was completed, the devoted make their way into the Temple to further offer their prayers to Lord Buddha, with multiple prostrations. Quite a strenuous looking practice involving a real physical workout. Reminds me of the Sun salutation practiced by the yogis. I am quite inspired by those who do the many many repetitions, young and old, men and women, monks, lay and even some Western practitioners of the faith. The dedication that the Tibetans have to their faith is quite honorable. There is something about 100,000 repetitions. Don’t remember exactly what it is, but they are committed to doing a lot of them! Also, within the Temple is a small enclosed area where the nuns oversee the lighting of hundreds of auspicious butter lamps, each one symbolizing the dispelling of darkness and the illumination of wisdom. Quite a beautiful sight to see. Throughout the community, pilgrims make their offerings of butter, replenishing the lamps that burn at each of the temples. Inside the Temple there are also many prayer wheels, as well as in the center of town. Yes, there are many, many opportunities to offer up prayer in McLeod Ganj, and the Tibetans are prayerful people.
During my visit in Dharamsala, I learned of the 17th Karmapa, Ogyen Trinley Dorje, who is the leader of one of the four lineages of Tibetan Buddhism. He is third in line to the Dalai Lama, after the 11th Panchen Lama, who is being held in captivity by the Chinese government. He too is here in exile and resides at the Dalai Lama's temple 7km north of Dharamsala. It was the week of his 26th birthday and Buddhists from throughout Asia were here to contribute to a week long series of pujas, praying for his health, well-being and long life. I ventured out for the last day, beginning at 7 in the morning, ending at 2:30 with his weekly public audience. We were to bring a white scarf to be blessed and were given a red ribbon, to be worn for the next four days in remembrance of him. There is so much more to be said of The Karmapa and my experience at the Temple, but for the sake of getting this blog off, before entering into a 10 day vipassana retreat, I will keep it short. Perhaps you will get a sense of my experience there from the pictures I am posting. Needless to say, it is quite an impressionable part of my journey and I am grateful to have made it.
During the time that I was in Dharamsala, the Dalai Lama taught a 2 day class on the basic tenets of Buddhism, to the youth at the Tibetan middle school. He does so four times a year. On the morning he was to teach, as the time drew near, people began to line the streets in order catch a glimpse of him as he passed by. As he approached, the air was filled with excitement. Passing by, he joyfully waved to the people as they waved back, clearly sharing a deep and mutual love for one another. Quite a moving experience of such public display of appreciation, honor and respect.
Throughout the town there are letters, articles, and writings of the Dalai Lama advocating for peace - advocating for relations with the Chinese of a peaceful nature, assuring the people that China is not a bad country. There is a letter posted acknowledging and expressing appreciation for the Indian people for opening up their borders to the Tibetans. Along the Temple path is a prayer request clarifying His position on environmental issues - offering a Prayer for all Sentient Beings - to protect the endangered species from the brink of distinction, appealing to the Tibetan people to abstain from using products from species facing extinction, appealing to all Tibetans to destroy their highly treasured possessions made from endangered species and pledge to never use those products again...let this be an inspiration for people world over...pray that all human beings be guided by the compassion of the Noble One to live harmoniously with Mother Nature.
Clearly, the Dalai Lama is teaching, guiding his people all along the way, so that even as he is playing a major role on the global front, he is ever so attentive to his own people in India, and to the best of his ability in Tibet, where his authority and influence is highly disregarded by the ruling Chinese Government.
Traffic is quite different here. There are very few cars, except on the weekends, when the Indian tourists come for a visit, packing the streets, beeping all along their way, as the local police attempt to maintain some sense of order. Quite a different experience from how it is during the week, when the pedestrians, including the many monks in maroon robes, the dogs, sacred cows and street vendors, are most predominant. Clearly I have my preference for weekdays for a number of reasons, but perhaps mostly because walking in the midst of such heavy traffic is scary!!
As you might imagine, there are many, many head shaven monks, men and women, dressed in maroon colored robes, oftentimes with a mala in hand, moving throughout McLeod. They are an active presence in the community here, not cloistered away in the monastery. They are quite friendly, with a quick smile. One day after leaving my hotel, I came upon a monk. I asked him something about the Temple, at which time he offered to show me the way. Next thing I knew we were on our way down a very steep hill. A little confused, because I did not think it was such a decline to get to there, I graciously followed. A good 20 minutes later, we arrived at his monastery. It was an incredibly beautiful site with quite a sweet temple. Once inside, he left me to meditate. I really appreciated the opportunity to be alone within this sanctuary filled with many sacred objects, including an image of his Holiness. Hoping that I was not committing any forbidden acts, I took a couple of pictures. As I was leaving, the young monk who sat outside the entrance invited me to stay at the monastery. I was touched by his generosity and would have accepted the invitation, were it not for a sore knee that would have been challenged by the daily trek up and down the hill. I declined his offer and set out to make my way up the hill, taking in the view along the way. I was grateful for the excursion into the valley, home of the Tsechokling Tibetan Monastery.
In 1959 the Chinese army had already invaded Tibet and destroyed over 600 monasteries, including the Tsechokling Monastery, home of over 80 monks. Only 6 of the brothers were able to escape the invasion. Those that were captured were imprisoned and sent to labor camps. Of the six that fed, one of them is the founding member of this monastery in exile. First establishing a monastery in Nepal, he then moved to Dharamsala in 1976 to be with the Dalai Lama. In 1984 the monastery was built and today is the home of over 20 monks, with rooms for visitors. Some consider them to be one of the most friendly and hospitable orders in the community. Certainly I can attest to it. Another sweet memory I will carry with me.
While in McLeod, I had the good fortune to visit the Norbulingka Institute, located a few kilometers outside of the area. The Institute emerged in the 1980’s after the Tibetans had been in exile for over 25 years. At that time they had become stabilized, with basic survival needs taken care of, many monasteries re-established, and education and health care provided for, when attention began to turn towards preserving the cultural roots and identity of the Tibetan people. With this in mind, the building of Norbulingka began, attracting many artisans wishing to contribute to the vision, soon evolving into a teaching and learning center of the arts. Amidst beautiful, lush tropical gardens, many of their native art forms are practiced and taught here, including thankga painting, thankga appliqué, copper statue making, woodcarving and carpentry. As I was guided thru the large studios housed in massive, architecturally exquisite buildings, I was struck by the powerful sense of presence that emanated from the artisans as they engaged in their deeply focused, meditative creative work. The attention to detail was breathtaking; as such, very fine pieces of art emerged. A pure joy to behold! As I continued to make my way thru McLeod, visiting the temples, the shops and museums, I oftentimes recalled my time at Norbulingka, imagining that some of the statues, the decorated altars and paintings were created by the artisans there.
I made a number of personal connections while in Daramsala. One was with Dr. Gonpo Kyi, who is a physician, practicing Tibetan medicine, Chinese acupuncture, massage therapy. I visited her a number of times getting help with my sore knee and travel-weary body. Very articulate, open and eager to share I always looked forward to my time with her. Her partner is a security guard of the Dalai Lama. With close connections, she hopes to someday be able to serve Him, as one of his physicians. I most enthusiastically recommended her to all other travelers I met in search of health care. There are loads of massage therapists and acupuncturists in Dharamsala. Finding one as good as Dr. Kyi is invaluable.
Also, while there, as a practitioner of astrology, I was curious about Tibetan astrology. Gonpo recommended Kunga Chooguck, a young man from Tibet who has been practicing most of his life. After meeting with him to provide all of my information, including the birth dates of both parents, I returned the next day, for a reading. As he spoke fairly good English, I was able to easily recognize my life tendencies as he identified them. My sign is of the Dragon and my element is water. Even within the Tibetan tradition, I am a communicator, a good organizer, am often times misunderstood, have many challenges, have had health problems and the best part of all, good times are soon to come! Kunga is a Monkey, together our two signs are compatible, he shares with a smile. I offered to provide him with a western chart, which he was quite curious about, until he shared that he did not know the date of his birth, only the year! Our connection was sweet and I will remember him fondly.
While at the Om Hotel, I met two Western women who were also staying there. One of them was Valerie, a physican from Asheville NC. She has come to do some research with Tibetan nuns, while also doing a good bit of volunteering, including helping with a medical grant. The other woman is Robin, from Australia. She has returned to India after having been here 26 years ago. She has come back to see Sai Baba, and is making her way South for the reunion. We plan to reconnect in Varanasi, after my retreat time in Bodhgaya. I very much enjoyed their company, as we met for meals, sharing of our days experiences.There were others I felt a more personal connection with, including the seamstresses who altered a top for me and a shop owner that was set up next to where I had my morning coffee. We had many pleasant conversations and were always happy to see each other.
There are many images of Dharamsala that captured my attention. As time is running short, I will simply share them here, hoping that you will enjoy getting just a little better feel for this special place on earth, where important Work is being done. Work that I regret not being able to more adequately capture here. Work that is of a global nature, in its complexity, power and significance. Work that is being led by the His Holiness the Dalai Lama and his lifetime commitment to Peace. Out of deep respect for Him and the vision he holds true to, I humbly bow. Namaste.
