The city of Shiva is considered to be one of the holiest cities, with pilgrims from throughout India gathering here to wash away a lifetime of sins in the Ganges or to cremate their loved ones. It is believed that if one dies here, they are liberated from the cycle of birth and death. Hindus consider it to be the heart of their universe, the place at which the physical and spiritual worlds meet. Ongoing ceremonies of life and death all take place here, as gatherings of men and women come together to study, pray and perform sacred rituals.
The Ghats are bathing steps which lead down to the sacred waters of the Ganges, with over 300 of them running all along the River. Throughout the area are numerous shrines and temples honoring the various gods, most prominently, Shiva.
Beyond the Ghats are narrow alley ways, called galis, which are lined with shops, restaurants, and small businesses operated out of the homes of the residents. Part of my daily routine included purchasing curd from this elderly man, making for a great breakfast of yogurt and mangos. And while I don’t smoke, I could not resist purchasing a bundle of leaf wrapped cigarettes, promised to be healthier, from this couple.
In addition to the smaller businesses, there were also a multitude of shops filled with silk and linen.
In this city of over one million, I found myself captivated by the oldest part of town, dedicating the vast majority of my time there. Fortunately, I was able to get a great room overlooking the Ghats, at the Sita Hotel. At night, as warm as it was, I found myself reluctant to turning on the fan, as it would drown out the sounds of the ongoing chanting and prayers. Varanasi is a soulful city, the atmosphere permeated with tradition going back over 2000 years. One cannot help but feel transported in time here, taking me way beyond my imagination, totally captivated by it all. And while so very, very grateful for the rich experience of having visited there, as in so much of my life, I found myself lost in the mystery of it. The depth that lay beneath the surface eluded me, leaving me hungry for deeper meaning and understanding. A wave of grief sweeps over as I contemplate the all-too-familiar experience of knowing there is so much more than the conscious mind comprehends, but for whatever reason, does not seem to have access to the full range of understanding. As a sightseer my cup runneth over. As a seer of truth, I remain open to wider perceptions of reality, penetrating the illusions of separation.
It was during my time in Varanasi, that I experienced the solar eclipse, when the light of day, was totally eclipsed by the dark of the moon. It was quite an experience, as thousands filled the Ghats in anticipation of the event. As the clouds dispersed, the Sun was in perfect view as the cosmic drama unfolded, for all to see.
Many photographers arrived for the event, including two young men from Kolkata, Pradipta and Sumit, who also stayed at the Sita Hotel. I had the good fortune of spending some time with them. They were most generous in the sharing of their lives and traditions while providing some sweet connection, connection I had longed for since arriving in India. As supporters of the Ramakrishna Mission, they invited me to join them in visiting the local Ashram. 
It was quite a wonderful experience, as we had a private audience with the Swamiji, followed by a tour, which included a hospital, retirement home for the elderly, a small farm for producing dairy products, a learning center and the Temple. Before leaving for the States, my cousin expressed interest in working with someone from here, in developing a website. While open to the possibility of finding someone who could help him, I was delighted to find out that Sumit has a business doing just that! (Somehow, the laws of manifestation seem to work quite gracefully here. I am appreciating the importance of being responsible for one’s thoughts.) I have put the two together. Both of the men have shared with me a few of their photos of the eclipse and the burning ghat, which I am sharing in this blog. They are really quite talented. I hope to maintain connection with them, even as I return to the States.A few of my favorite eclipse images:
Along with all of the religious tradition, there is wide range of activities that take place here.
Thursday seems to be the day for laundry, as the men turn out to do their washing, while the women drape the washed sheets out for drying.
As the crowds depart, after the climactic eclipse showing, things quiet down. I too am ready to move on, preparing for a 43 hour train ride into the southern part of the country.
The journey south was not an easy one, as I was sick most of the way. By the time I arrived in Pondicherry, I was quite ready for much needed down time. I made my way to Auroville, where I was able to take refuge at the College Guest House. The day after arriving, an NVC workshop was scheduled. I attended, appreciating the opportunity to receive a bit of empathy. Regrettable, Auroville is more complicated (complex, I was corrected) than I had the energy to sort out, so I am sure that I missed the real beauty in this community, started some 40 years ago, as a manifestation of a vision of the Mother, spiritual partner to Sri Aurobindo. I am grateful for the rest, as I recovered from a few hellish days, while in transition.
Now on to Tiruvannamalai, home of Sri Ramana Maharshi.
