After getting into the taxi, I was asked where I wanted to go, and next, why had I come to Gaya? (I was asked the same question by the son of the family where I am staying. When he asked why I had come here, I said, "I just came to visit." He replied, rather insistently, "Come on maam, no one just comes to visit Bodhgaya in the summer!" When I told him of my plans to attend the Intensive, his curiosity was satisfied.)
When I told the taxi driver, I had come for the Vipassana Intensive, he lit up and within seconds, and had the Center's administrator on his cell phone, confirming my participation in the course. (I had not registered previously, due to difficulty in getting through on Skype and no response via e-mail). He then informed me he would also be picking up the teacher of the course, from the airport. Ah, destiny at work, dispelling any doubts I may have had as to whether I had arrived here due to some "human error," resting assured that this was exactly where I was intended to be. Regardless of what the weather had to offer, I was on schedule! I really do delight in the unfoldment of my itinerary as planned by the "tour guides," especially enjoying the conscious connections that are being made, while also curious about the more unconscious ones.
After arriving at a very comfortable, clean, spacious two-room guesthouse, I was glad to be here, staying in for the first day, as I attempted to acclimate to the new environment. I worked on my Dharmsala blog and prepared for the Intensive that was to start in two days. The next day, I wandered out, after a wonderful evening rainstorm, which cooled things down quite nicely. Accepting a ride from a gentle man offering to take me for a tour of his town, I was taken to his favorite spots. I welcomed a brief introduction to Bodhgaya, planning to take more time, after I returned from the Intensive. Bodhgaya is the place where Prince Siddartha Gautama attained enlightenment beneath a bodhi tree and became the Buddha, 26 centuries ago. A descendant of the tree remains and is surrounded by the Mahabdhi Temple. Also in Bodhgaya are a large number of other temples and monasteries built by Buddhist organizations from other Asian countries, including Japan, China, Thailand, Vietnam, Nepal, Bhutan and Bangladesh.
Along the way is an incredibly large statue built in the Japanese image of Buddha with collaborative funding from the different monasteries in the communities. (See image at top of the side bar.) Its massive presence is quite impressive, said to contain 20,000 bronze statues of the Enlightened One.
In 528 BC, in spite of all attempts by his father to protect him from it, Prince Siddartha witnessed a vast amount of pain and suffering, encountering the realities of illness, old-age and death. With a burning desire to understand the nature of the suffering, he set out to find answers to “What is the purpose of a human consciousness which foresees that all human love must end in separation, all joy must end in sorrow and life in disability and death?” He vowed to completely remove the source of sorrow for all beings. With this deep abiding commitment, he took his place under the bodhi tree, the Diamond Throne, a place in which others before him had experienced enlightenment, prepared to remain there until he received answers to his burning question. After entering into ever deepening levels of meditation, he came to understand the patterns that rule human lives, limiting freedom while perpetuating suffering, without hope in the end. With understanding of the cause, he also understood a cure, setting out to offer it to the world. His teachings are based upon the eightfold path, of right views, right aspirations, right speech, right behavior, right livelihood, right effort, right thought and right contemplation.
My tour ended at the Mahabodhi Temple, which hums with vibrant activity. On the inside of the Temple gates are chanting and prayerful monks, monks offering discourse on the teachings of Buddha, and pilgrims paying homage. Outside the gates are a multitude of begging children, pleading mothers, persistent vendors and relentless merchants swarming about, ready to prey upon the willing ones who just might feel a bit more generous after their prayer time with the Buddha. It is not clear when the Temple was built. Within the grounds surrounding it are hundreds of shrines, plaques and carvings offered by visiting monasteries. In the 1400’s, when the Turkish Empire invaded India, they destroyed a good portion of the sacred site, demolishing statutes and killing monks. Many of them fled into neighboring Asian countries. Later, as the Turks withdrew, the Hindus took over the Temple grounds, claiming it as their own. It was not until the early 1900’s that possession of the Mahabodhi Temple was returned to the Buddhist Monks, in joint guardianship with the Hindus. Restoration continues to this day. In 2004 it was dedicated as a UNESCO World Heritage site.
As I grew weary from the growing heat and humidity, I found it difficult to pull myself away, staying on for the early evening chants and into the dark of night, eventually making my way back to my sweet abode for a good night's sleep. Tomorrow, I leave for the Dhamma Bodhi Center.
If one does yoga in Rishikesh, surely one meditates in Bodhgaya.
Before leaving for India, a friend of mine, from Sri Lanka had suggested I might look into the Goenka meditation course, while in India. He had just completed the program and found it to be a quite valuable experience. While expecting I would be enamored by the exotic nature of India and all that it has to offer, it felt important that I not lose sight of the inner journey, which was what called me here, to begin with. Ten days of silent meditation seemed like just the kind of program that would serve me well. The course was developed by Goenka, a man from Burma who experienced a healing from migraine headaches, using the principles of Vipassana meditation as taught by his teacher. After his healing he committed his life to sharing the teachings. Today there are Vipassana Meditations Centers throughout the world, offering 7, 10, 21 and 30 day programs to many thousands of people every month, including youth and inmates. The program is offered on a donation basis, including room and board, so that anyone interested in attending is free to do so, regardless of financial status. Goenka's initial interest was in helping to revive the practice of Buddhism in India, as the Hindu had lost touch with the teachings. It is a rigorous program with each day beginning at 4:30 AM and going until 9:30 PM. Within the day, 10 1/2 hours are spent "on the mat." The remaining 7 hours are spent with meals and resting. I can honestly say, I have not had such a grueling experience as this and I thought I was comfortable with meditation, but I have not really known what is was like to experience such long periods in the silence, as I did last week. I was pretty amazed by the ease with which the others seemed to drop into stillness. Most of the others were Hindu, ranging from the very young to the elderly. The technique of Vipassana meditation, as taught by Goenka, is based upon the impermanent nature of life. Focusing on the sensations of the body, moving from the gross to the subtle, one is able to be present to that which is arising and passing away, the theory being that as we become conscious and present to the sensations, we are able to move out of the reactionary mode of being, which causes pain and suffering for self and others. So that as we sat in mediation, our practice involved being present to the sensations as they arouse. For me and for many others, pain was a very common sensation as our bodies struggled to settle into unfamiliar postures for extended periods of time. It was quite an experience. Additionally, due to the heat, we were challenged with the sensations that accompanied this condition, including the constant accumulation of moisture that beaded up and rolled down the body. Periodically, gentle breezes came whispering thru the open windows, and I would imagine them to be a kiss from God; with larger gusts, as a wild embrace, providing brief and momentary relief. The process was pretty amazing. One evening, I was able to stay fully present to the discomfort, as I sat perfectly still for a good hour, moving thru the intensity of the pain that was present from sitting cross-legged. My knees hurt, my ankles hurt, my back hurt, my shoulders hurt, the heat was intense. On and on it went, "sweeping" thru my body as the pain arose and passed. After the meditation was over, I got up from the mat and for the first time during the retreat, I felt absolutely no stiffness in my body. It was quite mind blowing, in that clearly I had moved thru something in the process I had just been through. That is when I really began to appreciate the power of the process, excited about sharing it, particularly with those in my life who are dealing with physical pain. The mind/body connection began to make sense to me, recognizing that thru the process of bringing awareness to the sensations within the body I am able to experience liberation from unconscious patterns as they arise and fall away, manifesting in resistance and acceptance, pain and peace. Yes, it was a grueling and intense 10 days and I am grateful for the experience and for the new practice it offers me.
Even though we did not speak the entire time, by the end of the 10 days, there was a sense of deep connection between us all. The day after, a number of us hired a driver to take us on a tour of some of the locations that Buddha frequented, including caves that he had lived in, hilltops that he shared his teachings on, and the ruins of Nalanda University. Nalanda is considered to be one of the ancient world's greatest universities. As the first residential international university, up to 10,000 students and teachers studied there at a time. Courses of study ranged from grammar, logic, theology and astronomy to medicine and metaphysics. As a center of Buddhist theology, it flourished from the 5th-12th century A.D. The campus was the home of over 11 monasteries and 5 temples. Quite an amazing experience of stepping back in history, as the ruins were incredibly well maintained.
During the month of July, Shiva is celebrated. As we toured one of the larger stupas - shrines holding relics of the honored One - we took a tram ride up the mountainside.
The area was quite popular for the Hindus, as is often the case. Many of the Buddhist temples are built on grounds that are sacred to Hindus. I found the area quite mesmerizing, as I had yet to encounter Hindus in their traditional rituals. Upon arriving at the top, there was a large area, where many were drawing pictures on the ground. 
Apparently as a form of storyboarding, as we know it, sketching out images of their dreams while praying to the gods for help in bringing them into manifestation. Also amidst the crowd was a different kind of monkey. Quite regal with lots of presence, periodically charging after one of the visitors. If it was a Hindu woman, she would flee, but then quickly turned to offer a salutation of honor and respect. I could not take my eyes off of them, while careful not to make eye contact. They do not like to be stared at! The views from atop the mountain were quite spectacular. I was so grateful to have taken the trip, even though initially reluctant after so many days of silence. And even though it did feel a bit overwhelming at times, it was a day of adventure I will continue to treasure.
A day or two later a number of us took another excursion to visit yet another cave where Buddha spent time, prior to his experience of enlightenment. The trip led us through some of the most rural parts of the countryside.
Along the way, two young ones jumped on board, joining us in our adventure.
As a traveler, here to appreciate this country and the richness that it has to offer in its history, culture, spirituality and people, I am having a bit of trouble connecting to much of it, due to the current day reality. Today the people of India seem to be going through a time of transition. The time brings with it a desire to grow, change, move forward - out of poverty. Bihar is the poorest State in India, so I can not really speak for all of India. But here, most everyone I meet is looking/asking/begging, plotting, scheming for financial support. So many adolescent boys and young men are quick to ask for help with their education. The merchants insist on purchases and the very little girls plead for food. There is such great need here, with no qualms in requesting support. So that as I attempt to navigate thru my own desire to connect, to support, to be present to those I cross paths with, I do not always feel capable of responding in a way that meets their needs as well. As a Westerner we are instant targets. Very few of the young boys know English, but curiously enough, what they do know is, "Where are you from?" Where in America do you live?" "Washington DC is the capital of your country," "Obama is a good man," How long have you been here and how long will you stay?" Having run thru those questions/comments, they then make their requests. I am curious to know who trains them. Regrettably, I am resorting to modes of avoidance, confining my walks to the paths around the Temple amidst the monks, in quiet, safe solitude. As I ease into the sensations of my body, I am aware of feelings of sadness, trusting that with the impermanence of life, this will pass and that out it will emerge a new experience of connection and wholeness, not yet sure how that will look and what form it will take.
Gititorn, one of the woman I sat with in meditation, is a longtime practitioner of Buddhism, from Thailand. She was in Bodhgaya, staying at the Thai monastery for the month, when she learned of the Intensive and chose to attend. We have become friends. I have very much enjoyed her company. She has generously shared with me her passion and enthusiasm for her faith. As one who brings people here on tours of the sacred sites, she was a wealth of information. Before leaving the monastery she hosted a lunch for all of the monks who live at the monastery. She invited me to attend. I felt honored to do so, enjoying the opportunity to experience the community from the inside, while thoroughly enjoying the food. I hope to stay in touch with her.
I did not anticipate becoming so immersed in Buddhism while in India. And yet that is where I have been. And even though it is time to move on from Bodhgaya, much like Dharmsala, I feel as though there is so much more to explore and to experience here. While I have had the privilege to venture into the historical life of this Noble One, walking on some of the same ground he did, sitting under the Bohdi tree, meditating in several of the same caves, there is a richness to his teachings and the traditions that practice them, that I am only beginning to appreciate and understand.
So as Goenka continues to cultivate a revival of Buddhism in India and throughout the world, and the Dali Lama continues his relentless teachings of the middle path of peace and compassion, surely as a humanity we are all that much closer to experiencing a life free from suffering.
With respect and humility and gratitude, May all beings be Happy.
P.S. After arriving in Varanasi, I made yet one more pilgrimage to an important site in the life of Buddha. Buddha spent the first 7 weeks after his Enlightenment experience in Bodhgaya. He then traveled to Sarnath, just outside of Varanasi, where he offered his first teachings to the five men that he began his journey into Enlightenment with. The murals inside the temple, depicting his time there, are the first that I have seen.
May all beings be at Peace.
No comments:
Post a Comment