Journey Into Silence

Leaving Dharamsala, I took a two-hour taxi ride to catch the train to New Delhi, where I checked on some luggage in storage, took a quick shower, had lunch and then caught my next train to Gaya, which arrived 16 hours later. Arriving, as always is the case, there were hoards of men eager to provide help with luggage and transportation. I was quite willing to accept help with my pack, as I worked my way through a very crowded, early morning train station. Immediately thereafter, I was approached by a taxi driver, who I also accepted help from. I needed a ride, and did not feel like bartering over $1 or $2. As the three of us worked our way thru the crowd, with the taxi driver leading the way, I was immediately struck by the intensity of the heat, even as early as 6:30 AM. I had been warned of it, anytime I shared my plans to travel to the State of Bihar (where Buddha spent most of his life). I was especially discouraged from attending the Vipassana Intensive in Bodhgaya (6 km outside of Gaya), for the same reason. I was on a journey without the time to postpone travel for the sake of cooler weather, so on I went. But I must say, I immediately appreciated the warnings, as I experienced the reality, ever so quickly. Ugh, 45C (113F!) with 60% humidity!

After getting into the taxi, I was asked where I wanted to go, and next, why had I come to Gaya? (I was asked the same question by the son of the family where I am staying. When he asked why I had come here, I said, "I just came to visit." He replied, rather insistently, "Come on maam, no one just comes to visit Bodhgaya in the summer!" When I told him of my plans to attend the Intensive, his curiosity was satisfied.)

When I told the taxi driver, I had come for the Vipassana Intensive, he lit up and within seconds, and had the Center's administrator on his cell phone, confirming my participation in the course. (I had not registered previously, due to difficulty in getting through on Skype and no response via e-mail). He then informed me he would also be picking up the teacher of the course, from the airport. Ah, destiny at work, dispelling any doubts I may have had as to whether I had arrived here due to some "human error," resting assured that this was exactly where I was intended to be. Regardless of what the weather had to offer, I was on schedule! I really do delight in the unfoldment of my itinerary as planned by the "tour guides," especially enjoying the conscious connections that are being made, while also curious about the more unconscious ones.

After arriving at a very comfortable, clean, spacious two-room guesthouse, I was glad to be here, staying in for the first day, as I attempted to acclimate to the new environment. I worked on my Dharmsala blog and prepared for the Intensive that was to start in two days. The next day, I wandered out, after a wonderful evening rainstorm, which cooled things down quite nicely. Accepting a ride from a gentle man offering to take me for a tour of his town, I was taken to his favorite spots. I welcomed a brief introduction to Bodhgaya, planning to take more time, after I returned from the Intensive. Bodhgaya is the place where Prince Siddartha Gautama attained enlightenment beneath a bodhi tree and became the Buddha, 26 centuries ago. A descendant of the tree remains and is surrounded by the Mahabdhi Temple. Also in Bodhgaya are a large number of other temples and monasteries built by Buddhist organizations from other Asian countries, including Japan, China, Thailand, Vietnam, Nepal, Bhutan and Bangladesh.





Along the way is an incredibly large statue built in the Japanese image of Buddha with collaborative funding from the different monasteries in the communities. (See image at top of the side bar.) Its massive presence is quite impressive, said to contain 20,000 bronze statues of the Enlightened One.

In 528 BC, in spite of all attempts by his father to protect him from it, Prince Siddartha witnessed a vast amount of pain and suffering, encountering the realities of illness, old-age and death. With a burning desire to understand the nature of the suffering, he set out to find answers to “What is the purpose of a human consciousness which foresees that all human love must end in separation, all joy must end in sorrow and life in disability and death?” He vowed to completely remove the source of sorrow for all beings. With this deep abiding commitment, he took his place under the bodhi tree, the Diamond Throne, a place in which others before him had experienced enlightenment, prepared to remain there until he received answers to his burning question. After entering into ever deepening levels of meditation, he came to understand the patterns that rule human lives, limiting freedom while perpetuating suffering, without hope in the end. With understanding of the cause, he also understood a cure, setting out to offer it to the world. His teachings are based upon the eightfold path, of right views, right aspirations, right speech, right behavior, right livelihood, right effort, right thought and right contemplation.

My tour ended at the Mahabodhi Temple, which hums with vibrant activity. On the inside of the Temple gates are chanting and prayerful monks, monks offering discourse on the teachings of Buddha, and pilgrims paying homage. Outside the gates are a multitude of begging children, pleading mothers, persistent vendors and relentless merchants swarming about, ready to prey upon the willing ones who just might feel a bit more generous after their prayer time with the Buddha. It is not clear when the Temple was built. Within the grounds surrounding it are hundreds of shrines, plaques and carvings offered by visiting monasteries. In the 1400’s, when the Turkish Empire invaded India, they destroyed a good portion of the sacred site, demolishing statutes and killing monks. Many of them fled into neighboring Asian countries. Later, as the Turks withdrew, the Hindus took over the Temple grounds, claiming it as their own. It was not until the early 1900’s that possession of the Mahabodhi Temple was returned to the Buddhist Monks, in joint guardianship with the Hindus. Restoration continues to this day. In 2004 it was dedicated as a UNESCO World Heritage site.

As I grew weary from the growing heat and humidity, I found it difficult to pull myself away, staying on for the early evening chants and into the dark of night, eventually making my way back to my sweet abode for a good night's sleep. Tomorrow, I leave for the Dhamma Bodhi Center.








If one does yoga in Rishikesh, surely one meditates in Bodhgaya.

Before leaving for India, a friend of mine, from Sri Lanka had suggested I might look into the Goenka meditation course, while in India. He had just completed the program and found it to be a quite valuable experience. While expecting I would be enamored by the exotic nature of India and all that it has to offer, it felt important that I not lose sight of the inner journey, which was what called me here, to begin with. Ten days of silent meditation seemed like just the kind of program that would serve me well. The course was developed by Goenka, a man from Burma who experienced a healing from migraine headaches, using the principles of Vipassana meditation as taught by his teacher. After his healing he committed his life to sharing the teachings. Today there are Vipassana Meditations Centers throughout the world, offering 7, 10, 21 and 30 day programs to many thousands of people every month, including youth and inmates. The program is offered on a donation basis, including room and board, so that anyone interested in attending is free to do so, regardless of financial status. Goenka's initial interest was in helping to revive the practice of Buddhism in India, as the Hindu had lost touch with the teachings. It is a rigorous program with each day beginning at 4:30 AM and going until 9:30 PM. Within the day, 10 1/2 hours are spent "on the mat." The remaining 7 hours are spent with meals and resting. I can honestly say, I have not had such a grueling experience as this and I thought I was comfortable with meditation, but I have not really known what is was like to experience such long periods in the silence, as I did last week. I was pretty amazed by the ease with which the others seemed to drop into stillness. Most of the others were Hindu, ranging from the very young to the elderly. The technique of Vipassana meditation, as taught by Goenka, is based upon the impermanent nature of life. Focusing on the sensations of the body, moving from the gross to the subtle, one is able to be present to that which is arising and passing away, the theory being that as we become conscious and present to the sensations, we are able to move out of the reactionary mode of being, which causes pain and suffering for self and others. So that as we sat in mediation, our practice involved being present to the sensations as they arouse. For me and for many others, pain was a very common sensation as our bodies struggled to settle into unfamiliar postures for extended periods of time. It was quite an experience. Additionally, due to the heat, we were challenged with the sensations that accompanied this condition, including the constant accumulation of moisture that beaded up and rolled down the body. Periodically, gentle breezes came whispering thru the open windows, and I would imagine them to be a kiss from God; with larger gusts, as a wild embrace, providing brief and momentary relief. The process was pretty amazing. One evening, I was able to stay fully present to the discomfort, as I sat perfectly still for a good hour, moving thru the intensity of the pain that was present from sitting cross-legged. My knees hurt, my ankles hurt, my back hurt, my shoulders hurt, the heat was intense. On and on it went, "sweeping" thru my body as the pain arose and passed. After the meditation was over, I got up from the mat and for the first time during the retreat, I felt absolutely no stiffness in my body. It was quite mind blowing, in that clearly I had moved thru something in the process I had just been through. That is when I really began to appreciate the power of the process, excited about sharing it, particularly with those in my life who are dealing with physical pain. The mind/body connection began to make sense to me, recognizing that thru the process of bringing awareness to the sensations within the body I am able to experience liberation from unconscious patterns as they arise and fall away, manifesting in resistance and acceptance, pain and peace. Yes, it was a grueling and intense 10 days and I am grateful for the experience and for the new practice it offers me.





Even though we did not speak the entire time, by the end of the 10 days, there was a sense of deep connection between us all. The day after, a number of us hired a driver to take us on a tour of some of the locations that Buddha frequented, including caves that he had lived in, hilltops that he shared his teachings on, and the ruins of Nalanda University. Nalanda is considered to be one of the ancient world's greatest universities. As the first residential international university, up to 10,000 students and teachers studied there at a time. Courses of study ranged from grammar, logic, theology and astronomy to medicine and metaphysics. As a center of Buddhist theology, it flourished from the 5th-12th century A.D. The campus was the home of over 11 monasteries and 5 temples. Quite an amazing experience of stepping back in history, as the ruins were incredibly well maintained.




During the month of July, Shiva is celebrated. As we toured one of the larger stupas - shrines holding relics of the honored One - we took a tram ride up the mountainside. The area was quite popular for the Hindus, as is often the case. Many of the Buddhist temples are built on grounds that are sacred to Hindus. I found the area quite mesmerizing, as I had yet to encounter Hindus in their traditional rituals. Upon arriving at the top, there was a large area, where many were drawing pictures on the ground. Apparently as a form of storyboarding, as we know it, sketching out images of their dreams while praying to the gods for help in bringing them into manifestation. Also amidst the crowd was a different kind of monkey. Quite regal with lots of presence, periodically charging after one of the visitors. If it was a Hindu woman, she would flee, but then quickly turned to offer a salutation of honor and respect. I could not take my eyes off of them, while careful not to make eye contact. They do not like to be stared at! The views from atop the mountain were quite spectacular. I was so grateful to have taken the trip, even though initially reluctant after so many days of silence. And even though it did feel a bit overwhelming at times, it was a day of adventure I will continue to treasure.









A day or two later a number of us took another excursion to visit yet another cave where Buddha spent time, prior to his experience of enlightenment. The trip led us through some of the most rural parts of the countryside.




Along the way, two young ones jumped on board, joining us in our adventure.





As a traveler, here to appreciate this country and the richness that it has to offer in its history, culture, spirituality and people, I am having a bit of trouble connecting to much of it, due to the current day reality. Today the people of India seem to be going through a time of transition. The time brings with it a desire to grow, change, move forward - out of poverty. Bihar is the poorest State in India, so I can not really speak for all of India. But here, most everyone I meet is looking/asking/begging, plotting, scheming for financial support. So many adolescent boys and young men are quick to ask for help with their education. The merchants insist on purchases and the very little girls plead for food. There is such great need here, with no qualms in requesting support. So that as I attempt to navigate thru my own desire to connect, to support, to be present to those I cross paths with, I do not always feel capable of responding in a way that meets their needs as well. As a Westerner we are instant targets. Very few of the young boys know English, but curiously enough, what they do know is, "Where are you from?" Where in America do you live?" "Washington DC is the capital of your country," "Obama is a good man," How long have you been here and how long will you stay?" Having run thru those questions/comments, they then make their requests. I am curious to know who trains them. Regrettably, I am resorting to modes of avoidance, confining my walks to the paths around the Temple amidst the monks, in quiet, safe solitude. As I ease into the sensations of my body, I am aware of feelings of sadness, trusting that with the impermanence of life, this will pass and that out it will emerge a new experience of connection and wholeness, not yet sure how that will look and what form it will take.

Gititorn, one of the woman I sat with in meditation, is a longtime practitioner of Buddhism, from Thailand. She was in Bodhgaya, staying at the Thai monastery for the month, when she learned of the Intensive and chose to attend. We have become friends. I have very much enjoyed her company. She has generously shared with me her passion and enthusiasm for her faith. As one who brings people here on tours of the sacred sites, she was a wealth of information. Before leaving the monastery she hosted a lunch for all of the monks who live at the monastery. She invited me to attend. I felt honored to do so, enjoying the opportunity to experience the community from the inside, while thoroughly enjoying the food. I hope to stay in touch with her.



I did not anticipate becoming so immersed in Buddhism while in India. And yet that is where I have been. And even though it is time to move on from Bodhgaya, much like Dharmsala, I feel as though there is so much more to explore and to experience here. While I have had the privilege to venture into the historical life of this Noble One, walking on some of the same ground he did, sitting under the Bohdi tree, meditating in several of the same caves, there is a richness to his teachings and the traditions that practice them, that I am only beginning to appreciate and understand.

So as Goenka continues to cultivate a revival of Buddhism in India and throughout the world, and the Dali Lama continues his relentless teachings of the middle path of peace and compassion, surely as a humanity we are all that much closer to experiencing a life free from suffering.

With respect and humility and gratitude, May all beings be Happy.

P.S. After arriving in Varanasi, I made yet one more pilgrimage to an important site in the life of Buddha. Buddha spent the first 7 weeks after his Enlightenment experience in Bodhgaya. He then traveled to Sarnath, just outside of Varanasi, where he offered his first teachings to the five men that he began his journey into Enlightenment with. The murals inside the temple, depicting his time there, are the first that I have seen.



May all beings be at Peace.

Dharamsala

June 15. After another day-long bus ride, along with about 15 other westerners, I arrived in McLeod Ganj, the northernmost part of Dharamsala India, residence of His Holiness, the 14th Dalai Lama and the seat of Tibetan government-in-exile. As it would soon be dark, I was pooped and ready to find a place to crash, I checked into the first hotel available, sure that in the morning I would be moving on to another less expensive location.

Unfortunately I woke up with Delhi-belly and found myself going nowhere fast, other than the bathroom! I first tried going to a Tibetan doc for some help. He gave me some herbs to take, did some acupuncture and sent me on my way. It was not until I got desperate three days later, and bought some meds recommended by the pharmacist that I got relief. After having gone thru my experience in Mexico with parasites 2 years ago, I did not want to take my chances, attempting to use local remedies for the novelty of it. Shortly after recovering, I crossed paths with a number of the young women I met at Poohl Chatti. I had also been in touch with Tara and Emanuel via emails. Seemed as though a number of us who had stayed there had gotten sick. The day before leaving the ashram, the electricity had been out for about 10 hours - which is not uncommon - most likely causing some spoilage. With most travel books warning of the likelihood of developing some form of stomach problem while in India, I am confident that I have paid my turista dues, ready to move on in perfect health for the duration of the journey, thank you! Now feeling much better, I moved to a smaller hotel just down the street. The Om Hotel once again provided a room with quite a nice view overlooking the valley. Pretty minimal accommodations, but certainly pleasant enough at $6 a day. I brought my own small, down camping pillow, so along with it, a bed to sleep on, a fan to circulate the warm night air, and water to bath with, it does not take much to satisfy my needs.

So even though it took me a few days to begin to explore McLeod, I immediately felt a difference from the other areas of India, I had already explored. Partly due to its location in the Himalayan Mountains, at an altitude of 1770 M, making for cooler, crisper weather, surrounded by incredible mountain views and tall pines. The trip up the Mountain was quite beautiful. I will have to imagine the magnificence of this highly respected wonder from afar, as I will not be traveling any further north.

Dharamsala is rich with diversity. From the Muslim shopkeepers peddling their tapestries and papier mache from Kashmir, to the Hindi who are natives to the area, or those who briefly arrive on the weekends for a holiday, packing the streets as they drive through, beeping their horns as they go, the gypsies making their case for food, the westerners eager to contribute to the displaced Tibetans, the Monks remaining steady in their faith as they vigilantly remain true to their teachings, to the older Tibetans who seem to have made peace with their life here, to the young refugees who are still weary from the journey over, still numb from the trauma of it all, displaced and disconnected from those they love, eager to return to their homeland, hopeful that someday soon they will be free to do so. And at/in the heart of them all, is His Holiness, the Dalai Lama. Yes, they all love their Dalai Lama. It is in him that they have hope, that they feel supported and loved. He is the point of connection that holds them all together. His image and presence is felt throughout the town. The Tibetans would not be here, were it not for him. In many cases, he is the only reason they were willing and committed to making the painfully dangerous trek necessary to get here.

While there, I had the privilege of volunteering some time to be with a number of the young refuges, in a conversation class hosted by a local organization. Many shared stories of their escape out of Tibet, through Nepal, over the Himalayas and into India. For those fortunate enough not to have been captured, detained and punished, the trip seems to take an average of 28 days on foot. Most of them traveled in small groups of 8-12 people, led by a guide that best knows how to get them across safely, for a fee that was in turn often times used to bribe their way across borders. The majority of them travel without family members, so that when they finally arrive in India, they do so without their loved one. When I asked them why did they come, why did they risk their lives to be here, their response was consistently, "To be with the Dalai Lama." In him they have faith that things can be different - that someday the Chinese government will withdraw from Tibet, freeing them to live the life they choose, with a few of them concerned as to whether or not the path of non-violence was really an effective one. Was the Dalai Lama's deep and abiding commitment to the tenets of Buddhism, compassion and cooperation, really moving them much closer to their deepest heart’s desire - to be home with their families, to be in back in their homeland with their own people, their own culture, their roots, to live in peace. Many of them spoke of their experience of getting to meet the Dalai Lama after arriving here. It is customary that all refuges are greeted personally by His Holiness, upon their arrival. Many of them spoke of the tears they cried when first meeting him. One young man shared that he was sure he would not be moved to do so, but that in the moment, his emotions were overwhelming, and he too joined with the others in expressing his great joy, and deep gratitude for being here, alive and with Him. As each refuge has his/her own means of dealing with the challenges they face as they attempt to live their lives in some pretty difficult situations, the teachings of Buddhism helps to hold them steady, while boarding schools, new-found friends and the religious community provide further support. Little seems to be available as far as psychological counseling goes, so that as emotional wounds are unattended to, some are vulnerable to unhealthy behaviors, such as drinking and drugs. I was not in Dharamsala long enough to experience this first hand, however I did witness a group of health practitioners parading, advocating for a drug-free life. While for the most part a very peaceful community, the Tibetans do remain socially involved, reflected in the multiple banners displayed, helping to maintain an awareness of the issues that are important to them.





The town itself is quite packed with shops filled with anything and everything a tourist might imagine, intermixed with wonderful cafes ready to serve a multitude of cuisines - everything from Tibetan food, Chinese, Japanese, Italian, Mexican and yes, American. A meal rarely costs more than a couple of dollars, usually providing more than enough to eat. Oh yes, and lots of great chai, even though I still seek out my favorite place for a yummy cup of coffee every morning. It is a café just down from the Temple. In addition to the great brew, it also makes for a wonderful place to sit and take in the local scene as the vendors begin to set up shop for the day. All the while, those who are making their way in and out of the temple pass my way.











After many days, I begin to recognize some of them, including the beggars that work the area. After contributing to a couple of them, I ask to take their picture, to which they are quite agreeable. The beggars here are very interesting. They appear to be kin to the Romas I encountered in Hungary. Unlike those in Eastern Europe, they "do not want money mam, I am hungry, I need food for my baby," they insist. Initially quite willing to respond to their request, they guide me to the closest market. They immediately go for the powdered milk, often times selecting two bags, at a cost of about 500 rupees, the equivalent of about $10, 10 times more than I would have offered if I were to have given them money. Rumor has it that they then sell it back to the store, for the cash. Ah, once again, an opportunity to deal with my own thoughts, considerations, prejudices, concerns regarding relationship with other, other apparently in need. Each and every one who is approached by them does so, in their own very personal way, including the monks, who are not exempt from the experience/dilemma. One day while visiting a monastery, I was having lunch with a couple of other women when a group of the women beggars/with babes in arm, began to approach our table. Immediately the resident canine rushed to intervene, barking nonstop, literally chasing them away. One of the local women commented that they do not like the beggars and don’t seem to have much tolerance for their practices. All kind of curious. With a bit of compassion for the begging mothers and the scene that the dog was making as they attempted to work the crowd, I must admit I also felt a certain amount of gratitude for his insistence in preserving our space. Ah, lunch in peace, while quite happy to share my extra rice, at the end of the meal. Thank you dear canine.

The first day I made it to the Temple, I met a Tibetan woman who actually lived in America but has returned to India to be with her teacher. She is quite an interesting woman. In the U.S. she was married to a wealthy man, whom she divorced. After coming here, her teacher asked to her give up her money and to live on the streets, as part of her spiritual practice. I immediately offered her some rupees, but she declined, sharing that she has 20 for the day and that was more than enough, and that I should give my money to the Temple instead, or to one of the poor people on the streets. She invited me to join her at 5:00AM for lingkor, a walking meditation (ling - area surrounding the temple; kor - paying respect), circumambulating the grounds. It is a devotional practice that many, especially elderly, Tibetans participate in daily. Quite a lovely experience. All along the path are many, many prayer wheels. The wheels contain within them the avalokiteshvara’s mantra, Om Mani Padme Hum, which is a prayer requesting that His Holiness, the Dalai Lama, live for many eons and that all of his wishes be fulfilled, a prayer showing our solidarity for those brave men and women of Tibet who lost their lives for the cause of Tibet, and a prayer for the happiness of all sentient beings. Each spin of the wheel represents a prayer. Many carry with them hand-held wheels, spinning them as they walk.


Also on the path are many, many prayer flags, along with colorful prayers painted on the rocks. There is also a quite beautiful stupa, which is a religious monument with much symbolism, representing the various states of consciousness, said to contain a relic of the Buddha. There are also a number of sadhli - ascetics - dressed in their bright orange robes, sitting along the path, seeking enlightenment through doing their prayer work. Unlike the beggars, they ask for nothing, trusting in the Divine to meet their needs, as It manifests thru the goodwill of others. I am especially touched by the number of elderly that religiously make the pilgrimage each day, some moving ever so slowly up and around the hill...some with the help of others, often stopping for a rest at various points along the way.



Also along the path are the "sacred cows," meandering along their way, contributing to the ambience as they go. One morning I came upon a monk who was sharing his wealth with the monkeys, rapidly drawing quite a crowd of seemingly grateful recipients. And then perhaps my favorite part of the morning sojourn was in stopping for a short period of meditation, while sitting with a couple of monks who hold vigil chanting Tibetan prayers, in a very small temple along the way. At the end of the path, farmers offer their fresh greens for the day, with a lineup of bok choy, squash and okra. With each day, I discovered something new on the walk. I will miss it, I will miss those I walked with and will remember it quite fondly.


















Once the walk was completed, the devoted make their way into the Temple to further offer their prayers to Lord Buddha, with multiple prostrations. Quite a strenuous looking practice involving a real physical workout. Reminds me of the Sun salutation practiced by the yogis. I am quite inspired by those who do the many many repetitions, young and old, men and women, monks, lay and even some Western practitioners of the faith. The dedication that the Tibetans have to their faith is quite honorable. There is something about 100,000 repetitions. Don’t remember exactly what it is, but they are committed to doing a lot of them! Also, within the Temple is a small enclosed area where the nuns oversee the lighting of hundreds of auspicious butter lamps, each one symbolizing the dispelling of darkness and the illumination of wisdom. Quite a beautiful sight to see. Throughout the community, pilgrims make their offerings of butter, replenishing the lamps that burn at each of the temples. Inside the Temple there are also many prayer wheels, as well as in the center of town. Yes, there are many, many opportunities to offer up prayer in McLeod Ganj, and the Tibetans are prayerful people.




During my visit in Dharamsala, I learned of the 17th Karmapa, Ogyen Trinley Dorje, who is the leader of one of the four lineages of Tibetan Buddhism. He is third in line to the Dalai Lama, after the 11th Panchen Lama, who is being held in captivity by the Chinese government. He too is here in exile and resides at the Dalai Lama's temple 7km north of Dharamsala. It was the week of his 26th birthday and Buddhists from throughout Asia were here to contribute to a week long series of pujas, praying for his health, well-being and long life. I ventured out for the last day, beginning at 7 in the morning, ending at 2:30 with his weekly public audience. We were to bring a white scarf to be blessed and were given a red ribbon, to be worn for the next four days in remembrance of him. There is so much more to be said of The Karmapa and my experience at the Temple, but for the sake of getting this blog off, before entering into a 10 day vipassana retreat, I will keep it short. Perhaps you will get a sense of my experience there from the pictures I am posting. Needless to say, it is quite an impressionable part of my journey and I am grateful to have made it.















During the time that I was in Dharamsala, the Dalai Lama taught a 2 day class on the basic tenets of Buddhism, to the youth at the Tibetan middle school. He does so four times a year. On the morning he was to teach, as the time drew near, people began to line the streets in order catch a glimpse of him as he passed by. As he approached, the air was filled with excitement. Passing by, he joyfully waved to the people as they waved back, clearly sharing a deep and mutual love for one another. Quite a moving experience of such public display of appreciation, honor and respect.








Throughout the town there are letters, articles, and writings of the Dalai Lama advocating for peace - advocating for relations with the Chinese of a peaceful nature, assuring the people that China is not a bad country. There is a letter posted acknowledging and expressing appreciation for the Indian people for opening up their borders to the Tibetans. Along the Temple path is a prayer request clarifying His position on environmental issues - offering a Prayer for all Sentient Beings - to protect the endangered species from the brink of distinction, appealing to the Tibetan people to abstain from using products from species facing extinction, appealing to all Tibetans to destroy their highly treasured possessions made from endangered species and pledge to never use those products again...let this be an inspiration for people world over...pray that all human beings be guided by the compassion of the Noble One to live harmoniously with Mother Nature.

Clearly, the Dalai Lama is teaching, guiding his people all along the way, so that even as he is playing a major role on the global front, he is ever so attentive to his own people in India, and to the best of his ability in Tibet, where his authority and influence is highly disregarded by the ruling Chinese Government.

Traffic is quite different here. There are very few cars, except on the weekends, when the Indian tourists come for a visit, packing the streets, beeping all along their way, as the local police attempt to maintain some sense of order. Quite a different experience from how it is during the week, when the pedestrians, including the many monks in maroon robes, the dogs, sacred cows and street vendors, are most predominant. Clearly I have my preference for weekdays for a number of reasons, but perhaps mostly because walking in the midst of such heavy traffic is scary!!

As you might imagine, there are many, many head shaven monks, men and women, dressed in maroon colored robes, oftentimes with a mala in hand, moving throughout McLeod. They are an active presence in the community here, not cloistered away in the monastery. They are quite friendly, with a quick smile. One day after leaving my hotel, I came upon a monk. I asked him something about the Temple, at which time he offered to show me the way. Next thing I knew we were on our way down a very steep hill. A little confused, because I did not think it was such a decline to get to there, I graciously followed. A good 20 minutes later, we arrived at his monastery. It was an incredibly beautiful site with quite a sweet temple. Once inside, he left me to meditate. I really appreciated the opportunity to be alone within this sanctuary filled with many sacred objects, including an image of his Holiness. Hoping that I was not committing any forbidden acts, I took a couple of pictures. As I was leaving, the young monk who sat outside the entrance invited me to stay at the monastery. I was touched by his generosity and would have accepted the invitation, were it not for a sore knee that would have been challenged by the daily trek up and down the hill. I declined his offer and set out to make my way up the hill, taking in the view along the way. I was grateful for the excursion into the valley, home of the Tsechokling Tibetan Monastery.








In 1959 the Chinese army had already invaded Tibet and destroyed over 600 monasteries, including the Tsechokling Monastery, home of over 80 monks. Only 6 of the brothers were able to escape the invasion. Those that were captured were imprisoned and sent to labor camps. Of the six that fed, one of them is the founding member of this monastery in exile. First establishing a monastery in Nepal, he then moved to Dharamsala in 1976 to be with the Dalai Lama. In 1984 the monastery was built and today is the home of over 20 monks, with rooms for visitors. Some consider them to be one of the most friendly and hospitable orders in the community. Certainly I can attest to it. Another sweet memory I will carry with me.

While in McLeod, I had the good fortune to visit the Norbulingka Institute, located a few kilometers outside of the area. The Institute emerged in the 1980’s after the Tibetans had been in exile for over 25 years. At that time they had become stabilized, with basic survival needs taken care of, many monasteries re-established, and education and health care provided for, when attention began to turn towards preserving the cultural roots and identity of the Tibetan people. With this in mind, the building of Norbulingka began, attracting many artisans wishing to contribute to the vision, soon evolving into a teaching and learning center of the arts. Amidst beautiful, lush tropical gardens, many of their native art forms are practiced and taught here, including thankga painting, thankga appliqué, copper statue making, woodcarving and carpentry. As I was guided thru the large studios housed in massive, architecturally exquisite buildings, I was struck by the powerful sense of presence that emanated from the artisans as they engaged in their deeply focused, meditative creative work. The attention to detail was breathtaking; as such, very fine pieces of art emerged. A pure joy to behold! As I continued to make my way thru McLeod, visiting the temples, the shops and museums, I oftentimes recalled my time at Norbulingka, imagining that some of the statues, the decorated altars and paintings were created by the artisans there.









I made a number of personal connections while in Daramsala. One was with Dr. Gonpo Kyi, who is a physician, practicing Tibetan medicine, Chinese acupuncture, massage therapy. I visited her a number of times getting help with my sore knee and travel-weary body. Very articulate, open and eager to share I always looked forward to my time with her. Her partner is a security guard of the Dalai Lama. With close connections, she hopes to someday be able to serve Him, as one of his physicians. I most enthusiastically recommended her to all other travelers I met in search of health care. There are loads of massage therapists and acupuncturists in Dharamsala. Finding one as good as Dr. Kyi is invaluable.

Also, while there, as a practitioner of astrology, I was curious about Tibetan astrology. Gonpo recommended Kunga Chooguck, a young man from Tibet who has been practicing most of his life. After meeting with him to provide all of my information, including the birth dates of both parents, I returned the next day, for a reading. As he spoke fairly good English, I was able to easily recognize my life tendencies as he identified them. My sign is of the Dragon and my element is water. Even within the Tibetan tradition, I am a communicator, a good organizer, am often times misunderstood, have many challenges, have had health problems and the best part of all, good times are soon to come! Kunga is a Monkey, together our two signs are compatible, he shares with a smile. I offered to provide him with a western chart, which he was quite curious about, until he shared that he did not know the date of his birth, only the year! Our connection was sweet and I will remember him fondly.

While at the Om Hotel, I met two Western women who were also staying there. One of them was Valerie, a physican from Asheville NC. She has come to do some research with Tibetan nuns, while also doing a good bit of volunteering, including helping with a medical grant. The other woman is Robin, from Australia. She has returned to India after having been here 26 years ago. She has come back to see Sai Baba, and is making her way South for the reunion. We plan to reconnect in Varanasi, after my retreat time in Bodhgaya. I very much enjoyed their company, as we met for meals, sharing of our days experiences.

There were others I felt a more personal connection with, including the seamstresses who altered a top for me and a shop owner that was set up next to where I had my morning coffee. We had many pleasant conversations and were always happy to see each other.



There are many images of Dharamsala that captured my attention. As time is running short, I will simply share them here, hoping that you will enjoy getting just a little better feel for this special place on earth, where important Work is being done. Work that I regret not being able to more adequately capture here. Work that is of a global nature, in its complexity, power and significance. Work that is being led by the His Holiness the Dalai Lama and his lifetime commitment to Peace. Out of deep respect for Him and the vision he holds true to, I humbly bow. Namaste.