a pilgrimage

A couple of nights before leaving for Budapest, Juli and I attended an evening event with Latif Bolat, a Sufi musician and storyteller.
Somehow it came up in conversation, that I was going to be spending the next three months in Budapest, at which point Latif enthusiastically encouraged me to be sure to stop by and meet Gul Baba, and while there "please give him his love". I have always felt a kinship with the Sufis, not really understanding why. Suspecting that it probably has something to do with a past life. Don't know? But I certainly welcomed the opportunity to meet this highly respected and much loved spiritual leader of the Bektashi derwish order, right here in his region of the world. Somehow it all felt very auspicious and certainly something I looked forward to. Finally, a truley authentic Sufi experience. Maybe I will even get to whirl!


As you know, I have already visited the Turkish Ruddas Bath a number of times now, and continue to enjoy them. Patiently though, I was reserving my visit to meet Gul Baba for just the right time. I knew it was going to be a significant visit and I wanted to make sure I did not rush into it prematurely. Meanwhile, as my weeks unfolded I began to get some perspective on this country, this place and its people. I started becoming familiar with its history. And sure enough, a history which included the rulership of the Ottoman Empire for 150 years, back –in the 1500’s. That was up until when they attempted to over take Vienna, and were defeated by the Hapsburgs. At which point the Austria Empire began to move in and take control of Hungary, forcing the Turks out of the country. As a Christian regime, there was a thorough cleansing of that which represented the Muslims including the destruction of all Mosques, many bridges and fountains. The Ruddas Baths survived the demolition, being the first of a very long and highly valued and much enjoyed tradition here in Budapest. The Turks contributed a great deal to the culture of Hungary, introducing many new trades, including tayloring, leather and tin smithing, and new techniques for tanning. And not to forget that most treasured spice, no Hungary kitchen would dare be without, paprika! (I am suspicious that there is a deeply esoteric connection between New Mexico and Hungary and even Turkey, and it is in that red hot spice that neither would we want to be without!).

So, onto the website I go, hoping to find my way to Gul Baba, “Father of the Rose”, representing the beauty and purity of his heart. As I googled, much to my chagrin, I discovered that the wise man was actually bigger than life, and that in order to meet with him,
I would need to visit his turbe (tome), where he has been laid to rest since 1541. With a quite lovely bronze statue made in his likeness and

the six sided mausoleum memorializing his life, visitors are welcomed to pay him homage and sit in his presence for as long as one likes. In fact, as the northernmost sacred site for Muslims, many people of the faith do so, every year. I made my pilgrimage there and am happy I did.
And so while I was not able to actually meet with him in person, flesh to flesh, in my time of meditation I imagined that I did, actually leaving feeling quite satisfied with the visit. I did indeed give him Latifs warm regards and he responded in kind. I later emailed Latif, sharing of the message, along with some pictures. He replied with a note of appreciation, expressing his own desire to make the trip some day.

Don't be a spectator on this trip,

There is no death worse than just waiting around.

Set your heart on the heros's gold

and go.

-Rumi